Lost in Translation PT I

Anyone that knows me can confirm, google flights hates to see me coming. Traveling has become part of my identity – and as promised in my first entry for all 4 of you keeping track, will now be part of this blog. To be completely honest, it may even be a vice at this point. Sitting still has never been my strong suit. How could anyone not want to explore the world? Isn’t that the whole point?? Try all the foods, climb all the mountains, swim all the oceans, see all the architecture, learn foreign traditions, walk amongst history, flirt with men with cute accents, say “I could totally live here” all day long, dance to songs in languages I don’t understand, take in the sunrise on the beach after losing track of time (and maybe my passport) in Barcelona – you get the idea…

There is so much perspective out there – new ways of solving the same problems. So many unique environments to experience you never knew existed and you get to feel brand new in every single one. Different places produce different feelings which is exactly what I try to do for every space I design. So naturally, I need to see them all for myself.

For a long time, Japan was top of the list (it’s a long list). A friend moved there in the fall and this spring I happened across a flight deal too good to refuse. For what it’s worth, I had just had knee surgery and was well past ready to get the hell out of my apartment. Why not cross the Pacific Ocean? I’m honestly not sure when exactly the Japan obsession began. Maybe it was in college when I took a class on East Asian architecture history, or simply the idea of seeing life on the literal opposite side of the globe. Plus, I’m one of those people who loves the airport (it’s like Christmas Eve for adults) so even the journey itself excites me.

On my trip I got to visit Okinawa, Osaka, Kyoto and Tokyo. Rebecca, the friend I mentioned, moved to Okinawa with her husband after they were stationed there by the Navy. Their new home was my first stop. As Rebecca put it, Okinawa is “Japan-lite”. The island carries a lot of western influence thanks to the Naval base and a complicated history of war and changing states of independence. It’s a beautiful tropical island juxtaposed by heavy, utilitarian architecture. Most buildings have a focus on structure intended to withstand tsunamis and the coast is lined with impressive concrete barrier walls broken up by patterned joints. Every so often you’ll see a building covered in playfully pastel or iridescent exterior tile breaking up the blocks of gray mid-rises. Those were my favorite. That said, there’s definitely something spooky in the air in Okinawa. Many say the island is haunted due to World War II. Environmentally speaking, you can feel the same eeriness in instances of oddly paired cityscapes – think snorkeling a beautiful reef next to giant concrete tetrapods.

After a brief stint in Okinawa, we flew to the main island starting in Osaka. I originally proposed we skip Osaka for schedule’s sake but Rebecca insisted I would like it. She was right. Osaka has a special chaotic energy the rest of the island doesn’t. It’s vibrant, young, gritty, frankly a little dirty, yet bright. Admittedly, I’ve always found a touch of chaos fun. Busy alley ways littered in signage and neon are everywhere you look. The giant LED animated screens, super graphics, flashy ads and over the top caricature installations are in constant competition for your attention. It’s like a super charged, unintentional version of maximalism. There are moments of charm hidden in the chaos, too. Just on the other side of hung noren, you’ll have some of the best ramen of your life rubbing elbows at a tiny counter where the outside world is drowned out by the subtle hum of the kitchen and the sounds of polite slurping. These hole in the wall establishments hold touches of tradition in wood tile menus and authentic cooking practices on display in open kitchens just an arms length away. Osaka energized me in an “I’m ready to eat some questionable skewers and get happily lost on the subway” kind of way.

To be continued…